patternmaking 101: bodice block
this guide will teach you how to draft the basic bodice block which is the base to must patterns. we use the bodice block and the pattern manipulation techniques to draft the patterns for pretty much any garment.
there are many ways to create a bodice block there no “one fists all” specially because all bodies are different and even with a lot of measurement it can be difficult to create the perfect bodice block with one method. the steps i will show here are the ones that have worked fine for me and one of the easiest to follow. once you create the block i highly recommend testing it and making the adjustments needed.
measurements needed:
if needed check the measuremnets guide
neck circumference
chest circumference
waist circumference
Shoulder to waist front
shoulder to bust point
bust point to bust point
shoulder width
shoulder to waist back
front bodice block
use the image for reference to draw the lines with the following measurements:
A-C the shoulder to waist front measurement
A-D 7 cm (standard) or the neck circumference divided by 5
A-F line half of the shoulder width + 3cm
A-G shoulder to bust point
A-E 7 cm (standard) or the neck circumference divided by 5
A-B half of the shoulder width
F-H chest circumference divided by 4
C-J waist circumference divided by 4
J-H draw a line that connects these points
G-I draw a line that connects G with the J-H line
B-N draw a line that connects B with the F-N line
B-K mark k 3 cm below b
E-K draw a line that connects both points
L measure from K to N and mark L in the middle
L-M draw a 1.5 cm line and mark M
K-M-H using the french curve connect these points
E-D using the french curve connect these points
back bodice block
follow the same steps for the front bodice but this time use the shoulder to waist back measurement for the A-C line , use 2 cm for the A-D line and for the L-M line use 0.5 cm instead of 1.5
adding darts
to calculate the bust line dart you need the shoulder to waist difference (shoulder to waist front - shoulder to waist back )
front bodice block darts
use the image for reference to draw the lines with the following measurements:
G-O half of the bust point to bust point measurement
I-P the shoulder to waist difference previously calculated, if there is no difference you can skip this step
O-Q draw a line that connects the o point with the armhole
Q-R measure between 1.5 cm and 2.5 cm and then connect r with o. you may need more or less here, that’s why it's recommended to test the pattern and make the needed adjustments.
O-S draw a line that connects these points.
mark the V point 3 cm below O
S-U and S-T mark 1.5 cm to each side and then connect V with U and T
back bodice block dart
use the image for reference to draw the lines with the following measurements:
O-S draw a line that connects these points.
mark the V point 3 cm below O
S-U and S-T mark 1.5 cm to each side and then connect V with U and T